Paver Installation Pro Tips: Base Prep, Compaction, and Joints

Ask any seasoned hardscape installer where patios and driveways fail, and you will hear the same three culprits on repeat: a weak base, poor compaction, and sloppy joints. Paver systems are forgiving in some ways, yet uncompromising on fundamentals. Get the foundation right, lock the units properly, and your patio looks crisp years later. Miss by a little, and you invite ruts, wobble, and weeds.

This field guide distills what years on residential landscaping and commercial landscaping crews teach you about doing it once and doing it right. It applies whether you are building a paver patio tucked behind a pergola, a paver walkway with gentle curves, or a paver driveway seeing daily loads. I will reference real numbers, common materials, and trade-offs that matter to landscape contractors and serious DIYers alike.

Start with the site, not the pallet

Before design or demolition, read the site. Paver installation lives and dies by water management and subgrade stability. Walk the property and note downspouts, swales, tree roots, and the way the lawn dries after rain. If the backyard landscaping collects water near the proposed hardscape, route it before you compact a single layer. A French drain along the high side, a catch pool deck installation basin tied to solid pipe, or a daylighted swale can save a patio. Flat ground fools people. You still need at least 2 percent slope away from structures, roughly a quarter inch per foot.

Soil type sets your base strategy. Silty clays pump under load and hold water, while well-graded sand and gravel drain and compact beautifully. I carry a mason jar for a quick jar test. A handful of subsoil in water, shaken and left to settle, tells you whether fines dominate. In heavy clay, plan on either a thicker base, a woven geotextile underlayment, or both. On old lots with fill, do not assume uniform bearing. If your plate compactor chatters and does not “walk,” or your test pass leaves a subtle ripple, keep proof-rolling until the subgrade is firm.

Tree roots complicate design. Skimming roots to gain depth is tempting, but it injures trees and adds movement later. Consider a shallow, permeable paver build-up with a structural open-graded base where depth is limited, or shift the patio boundary. Landscape planning means solving these details early rather than excavating twice.

Choosing the right paver system and pattern

Interlocking concrete pavers remain the workhorse for patio installation, pool deck installation, and paver driveways. They come in modular bundles designed to knit together. Brick pavers bring rich color and a smaller unit that handles tight curves. Natural stone, from flagstone to cut limestone, can be laid as dry-laid hardscaping or set on a mortar bed, but the base prep principles largely overlap.

Pattern affects performance as much as aesthetics. Running bond shows tire paths on a driveway and tends to creep under braking. Herringbone, set at 45 or 90 degrees, distributes load better and resists shear, which is why many commercial landscaping specifications require it for high-traffic paver pathways. Large-format slabs look modern but need a flatter screed bed and more careful compaction to avoid lippage. Permeable pavers are a different animal, designed to move water through the joints into an open-graded base. They excel where local codes demand stormwater control or where you want to keep water on site.

Consider the edge conditions while you design. A clean soldier course along a lawn edge is more than a visual frame. It provides the width for an edge restraint stake pattern and helps seating walls or garden walls read as part of a unified outdoor space design. For pool patios, use a textured, slip-resistant unit, and mind pool deck pavers’ expansion, drainage, and chemical exposure.

Base preparation: depth, materials, and order of operations

Base prep is where most landscape construction budgets earn their keep. For typical residential installations on native soils that drain reasonably well, aim for 6 to 8 inches of compacted base for patios and walkways, and 10 to 12 inches for driveways. On expansive clays or if a paver driveway will see delivery trucks, add several inches. It is cheaper to bring an extra load of aggregate than to rebuild a failed entrance two winters later.

The classic base is dense-graded aggregate, often labeled as crusher run or road base, with a mix of angular stone and fines that lock under compaction. I prefer a gradation around 3/4 inch down to fines for most work. For permeable paver benefits, or in poor soils where you need better drainage and a stiffer structure, use an open-graded base: No. 57 stone over No. 2 or No. 3 stone, capped with a bedding layer of No. 8 or No. 9 stone. This system sheds water into voids and reduces frost susceptibility, which matters in freeze-thaw regions.

Start by excavating to the design depth plus room for edge restraints. Stake out elevations with strings and line levels or lasers, building in slope away from structures. Excavate beyond the finished patio by 6 to 12 inches to give the edge restraint a seat on solid base. Strip topsoil fully. Organic material is enemy number one under hardscapes, and leaving even a thin mat invites settlement.

If the subgrade is soft, roll out woven geotextile fabric over the entire footprint before placing base. Woven, not non-woven, offers separation and strength. It prevents fines from pumping into your base and keeps the structure intact if the subgrade gets wet. On municipal projects and corporate campus landscape design work, geotextile is often standard.

Place base in lifts, 2 to 3 inches loose, and compact each lift before adding the next. Thick lifts trap air and hide voids. Feather the base to maintain consistent slope, and check with a long straightedge or screed rails. The better you shape the base, the easier your bedding layer and final paver installation will go. Do not rely on the bedding sand to correct deep hollows.

Compaction that actually sticks

Compaction is not a single pass with a plate compactor and a thumbs up. The goal is to reach a density where the aggregate behaves like a single mass. On dense-graded base, that means moisture conditioning and multiple passes per lift. If the base looks dusty under the plate or if the stone skates, add a bit of water to bring moisture closer to optimum. Not soupy, just damp enough that fines mobilize and lock.

For patios and walkways, a quality 200 to 300 pound forward plate compactor works. In driveways and large plinths under seating walls or outdoor kitchens, a reversible plate compactor delivers more energy and faster coverage. The difference shows up when you proof-roll. Walk the base and watch for flex or drumming. If the plate dances without biting, your lift is too thick or too dry. In cold weather, stop compacting when the surface begins to glaze with frost or ice. It will never lock right at that moment.

The bedding layer is not an afterthought in compaction either. Screed a consistent 1 inch layer of concrete sand or a washed manufactured sand. Mason sand tends to be too fine and round. In open-graded systems, use small clean stone, but keep the screed layer thin. Do not walk on the bedding layer more than necessary. Any footprints should be raked and re-screeded. Once pavers are placed, compact the field with a plate outfitted with a protective mat. Two passes at right angles settle units into the bed and start the interlock. On large-format slabs, consider a high-frequency rubber roller compactor or an orbital plate designed for slabs to reduce the risk of breakage and edge spall.

Edge restraints that hold the system together

Interlocking pavers do their best work within a frame. Plastic edge restraints rated for driveways, aluminum curbs, or cast-in-place concrete haunches all work if they sit on the base layer, not just on the bedding sand. Fasteners matter. In cold climates, 10-inch spiral spikes hold better than smooth spikes. On curves, cut the restraint back ribs so it flexes without kinking. For a stone patio where a rustic edge is desired, a low-profile concrete toe at the back can be hidden with soil and mulch, still keeping the field locked.

Where a patio meets a vertical surface, like a foundation, leave a narrow expansion joint and fill it with a backer rod and flexible sealant or a strip of compressible foam. This avoids hard contact that can translate movement. It also doubles as a practical drip channel when outdoor kitchen installation or fireplace installation adds heat and weight nearby.

Joints: sand, polymeric, and drainage details

Joints do more than fill space. They transfer load, manage water, and keep plants at bay. Regular joint sand, swept and vibrated in, works fine on most paver patio builds if you maintain it. Polymeric sand, which hardens when properly activated, helps lock joints and resist weeds and insects. Properly is the key. The field must be bone dry, the sand installed in lifts with compaction to settle it, and the activation water applied evenly without flooding the surface. Too much water washes binders out. Too little leaves crusts that blow out. I test by running a finger along a joint after the first light misting. If fines smear, keep the water gentle and patient. If you are installing in shoulder seasons, watch overnight lows. Poly sand hates freeze-thaw while curing.

On permeable pavers, joints are filled with clean stone, not sand. The gradation typically matches the bedding layer. The voids allow water to move through the system. These joints require periodic top-ups as the system vacuums grit over time, but they excel at managing stormwater without extra drainage pipes. In regions with winter ice, permeable systems also reduce surface icing because water has somewhere to go.

The joint width you select ought to match the paver or stone type. Tumbled or split units tolerate wider joints and hide tiny adjustments. Precision slabs want tight, uniform joints, which means your screed bed needs to be nearly perfect and your installers patient. On natural stone patios, avoid cement mortars in joints unless you designed for a rigid system with a concrete base and expansion joints. Hybrid approaches, like resin-bound joint fillers, can work on pedestrian stone walkways where a cleaner look is desired, but they require strict substrate drainage and cure conditions.

Managing water at the edges and under the surface

If your base prep and compaction give the patio its bones, then drainage keeps it healthy. Slope is the first tool. Use 1.5 to 2 percent on patios, more if the surface texture is very smooth. Direct flow away from structures, and avoid trapping water against retaining walls. Where a patio meets a house, keep the top of pavers at least 6 inches below siding or ledger boards, and check that any weep screeds remain clear.

On hillside sites or where a patio tucks against a retaining wall, plan a perforated drain behind the wall and a solid pipe crossing under the patio to daylight. The cost is small compared to dealing with hydrostatic pressure later. For wall systems using segmental blocks, clean core stone and properly graded backfill make a huge difference. Retaining wall installation and patio installation meet at drainage. Treat them as one landscape project rather than two.

Downspouts deserve special attention. Extension leaders that dump near a patio edge will saturate base layers and wash out joint sand. Tie downspouts to solid pipe through the patio footprint or redirect them to rain gardens or a dry well. For clients interested in sustainable landscaping or xeriscaping, the combination of permeable pavers, native plant landscaping around the hardscape, and directed roof water can be both functional and beautiful.

Cold climates, heat islands, and soil movement

Freeze-thaw durability in hardscaping starts with drainage and compaction, but material choices matter. Concrete pavers from reputable manufacturers meet ASTM standards for absorption and compressive strength. They shrug off winter if they sit on a stable base. Avoid de-icers heavy in ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate. They attack the cement matrix. Calcium magnesium acetate and sand for traction do less harm. Snow and ice management without harming hardscapes is a real concern for commercial sites. Train maintenance crews to use plastic blade guards and keep skid steer wheels off the edge restraints.

In hot climates or full-sun pool patios, consider color and texture. Lighter pavers reflect heat and make poolside design more comfortable. Joint sands can drift under UV and wind if not installed well. Sealing remains optional. A breathable, penetrating sealer helps with stain resistance in outdoor dining space design and outdoor kitchen planning, but it is not a fix for poor joints or slope.

Expansive soils swell and shrink with moisture changes, which telegraphs into hardscapes. A well-compacted, thicker base and the use of geotextile mitigate some movement. Planting design around the patio can also help. Deep-rooted native plants and ornamental grasses moderate soil moisture swings better than large beds of impermeable landscape fabric and rock mulch.

Integrating hardscape with softscape and structures

Patios rarely local deck installers stand alone. They connect to pergola installation, fire pit installation, water features, and planting beds. Think about traffic flows and level changes. A stone walkway from the driveway to a front yard landscaping entry should land at the same elevation as the stoop, or transition with two or three broad steps. Seating walls make nice edges and wind breaks, but they add point loads. If you know a masonry fireplace or outdoor kitchen will sit on the patio, increase base thickness under those footprints and consider a concrete foundation with dowels that tie into the wall system. Outdoor kitchen structural design, even for grill islands, benefits from an early discussion between the design-build team and the hardscape crew.

For covered patio structures like pavilions and aluminum pergolas, footings come first. Do not cut a finished patio to dig footings if you can avoid it. The design-build process benefits everyone here. Set posts in line with paver pattern modules when possible so cuts around them look intentional. Electrical chases for landscape lighting or outdoor audio system installation should be sleeved under the patio during base prep, not fished later.

Planting beds next to patios need breathing room. Maintain a 2 to 4 inch gap filled with decorative stone or a narrow band of pavers set lower so mulch and soil do not migrate into joints. Mulch installation helps regulate moisture near edges, but avoid piling it against edge restraints. In pool landscaping, use non-organic ground covers near the water to reduce debris in filters.

Step-by-step field sequence that avoids rework

When crews run multiple projects across a full service landscaping calendar, consistency prevents mistakes. The following compact sequence fits most patio and walkway installations and limits wasted steps.

Layout and elevations: string lines, slope checks, utility locates, and material staging plan. Excavation and subgrade prep: full depth removal, proof-rolling, geotextile installation if needed. Base placement and compaction: lifts, moisture conditioning, slope shaping, and edge extension. Screed and set pavers: rails set to grade, careful placement, alignment checks, and cutting. Edge restraints and jointing: secure edges on base, compact field, sweep sand or stone, activate or top-up, and final passes.

Each step has quality checks. After excavation, confirm depth at multiple points and re-check slope. After base compaction, place a straightedge or laser receiver on grid marks and record variances. During laying, keep joints tight and pattern true with frequent string checks. Small corrections early save hours later with a saw.

The saw cuts that make or break the look

Even the best hardscape design relies on cuts. A clean border against a curved garden bed or a paver walkway that slips through a planting with gentle flair looks effortless because the cutting was careful. Use a table saw with a wet diamond blade for most straight cuts and a handheld saw with a segmented blade for radii. Score and nibble curves in small bites rather than forcing a tight turn. On tumbled pavers, a quick pass with a brick hammer or a paver splitter softens the manufactured edge to match factory tumbled faces.

Safety matters here. Wet cutting controls dust, which is silica. Set up slurry management so it does not stain installed pavers. Keep a spare set of clothes or aprons on the truck if the job includes upscale patios, outdoor rooms with porcelain-faced appliances, or adjacent landscape walls in light stone that show splatter.

Quality you can see and quality you feel

Clients notice crisp lines and elegant patterns in their outdoor living spaces. They also feel the hidden quality when a dining chair sits flat, when a rolling cooler glides without clatter, and when spring frost leaves no heave. That feel comes from proper compaction before paver installation and from joints that drain rather than trap water. It also comes from honest conversations during the landscape consultation. If the budget prioritizes a larger footprint over base depth, explain the trade-off. A smaller paver patio that lasts beats a sprawling stone patio that settles within a year.

On commercial properties, the stakes expand to maintenance and liability. Nighttime safety lighting, clear walk edges, and ADA-compliant transitions belong in the construction drawings, not added later. For office park landscaping and school grounds maintenance, durability takes precedence. Herringbone patterns, thicker pavers, and concrete edge haunches make sense even if the initial bid is higher. The landscaping ROI and property value often favor the robust option.

Maintenance keeps the system tight

Even the best installation benefits from a maintenance plan. Schedule a landscape maintenance check in the first year to re-sweep joints, especially on permeable systems. Power washing must be gentle. Avoid turbo nozzles that blast joint sand. Use a low-pressure fan tip and cleaning solutions meant for pavers. For stains from grills in outdoor kitchens, a poultice or targeted degreaser works without stripping sealers.

Inspect edge restraints at spring startup. Freeze-thaw can lift spikes. Drive them back or add spikes where needed. For lawns that creep into edges, a line trimmer can shower joints with debris. A clean metal edging or a narrow stone band between turf and patio reduces grit and weeds. If an area settles due to a utility trench or a missed pocket during base compaction, lift the pavers, re-prepare the base, and reset. The modular nature of interlocking pavers turns repairs into surgical work rather than demolition.

Why geotextiles, geogrids, and open-graded bases are gaining ground

Landscape architecture and engineering specs increasingly call for fabrics and open-graded aggregate, and not only for permeable pavers. Woven geotextiles offer separation that maintains base integrity where soils vary, and geogrids add tensile reinforcement in poor subgrades or under retaining walls. Open-graded bases drain and resist frost heave better. The trade-offs include different compaction techniques, more careful bedding, and stone availability. On smaller residential landscaping jobs, the added cost is modest, yet the performance gains in difficult soils are significant.

When you pair these modern assemblies with smart irrigation design strategies around the hardscape and sustainable landscaping materials in plant beds, you get outdoor space design that handles weather and wear with less drama. Fewer callbacks, more referrals.

Detail notes for special situations

Pool decks demand gentle slopes, not too flat and not too steep. Half a percent to 1 percent toward drains away from the coping feels right under bare feet. Use joint sands and sealers compatible with pool chemicals, and avoid darker pavers near south-facing water where glare and heat rise.

Driveways need subgrade proof-rolling with a loaded vehicle if possible. Areas that rut under a pickup will rut under daily traffic. In snow regions, introduce gentle curves rather than tight S-turns that concentrate shear. If space allows, widen the entrance flare for easier turning and less edge stress.

Flagstone walkways over a flexible base benefit from joint stabilizing sands or small chips more than from mortar. Mortar on flexible base cracks. If a client wants a mortar-set look, set the stone on a concrete slab with expansion joints, control joints, and proper drainage through weep screeds or drains, not into soil.

Where patios meet timber decks, plan for independent movement. A ledger-braced deck and a paver patio should not be rigidly tied unless engineered. A small compressible joint or a decorative strip separates the two and avoids telegraphing deck movement into the patio.

When to call a pro

Plenty of homeowners handle backyard patios as custom landscaping projects, and many succeed. If you face high groundwater, heavy clay, steep slopes, or structural elements like retaining walls or masonry fireplaces, bring in a full service landscaping firm with design-build experience. They carry compactors sized for the job, know when to spec geogrid or switch to permeable, and coordinate wall installation, walkway installation, and planting design so the property landscaping reads as a whole.

Look for landscape contractors who talk about subgrade, edge restraint details, and load paths, not just paver colors. Ask for 3D landscape rendering services if the layout is complex or if multiple outdoor structures intersect. The best teams stand behind their base preparation for paver installation, not only the top layer everyone sees.

A final word from the base up

A great patio or walkway feels inevitable, like it has always belonged where it sits. That feeling is the product of patient excavation, careful compaction, clear drainage logic, and joints that lock yet breathe. Patterns and colors matter, but they come alive only on a foundation built with judgment. Whether you are planning a front yard landscaping upgrade, designing a poolside pergola with a stone fire pit nearby, or refreshing a tired concrete walkway with interlocking pavers, treat base prep, compaction, and joints as the non-negotiables. Get those right, and the rest of your landscape transformation has a stable stage to perform on.

Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design is a full-service landscape design, construction, and maintenance company in Mount Prospect, Illinois, United States.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design is located in the northwest suburbs of Chicago and serves homeowners and businesses across the greater Chicagoland area.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design has an address at 600 S Emerson St, Mt. Prospect, IL 60056.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design has phone number (312) 772-2300 for landscape design, outdoor construction, and maintenance inquiries.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design has website https://waveoutdoors.com for service details, project galleries, and online contact.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design has Google Maps listing at https://www.google.com/maps?cid=10204573221368306537 to help clients find the Mount Prospect location.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design has Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/waveoutdoors/ where new landscape projects and company updates are shared.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design has Instagram profile at https://www.instagram.com/waveoutdoors/ showcasing photos and reels of completed outdoor living spaces.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design has Yelp profile at https://www.yelp.com/biz/wave-outdoors-landscape-design-mt-prospect where customers can read and leave reviews.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design serves residential, commercial, and municipal landscape clients in communities such as Arlington Heights, Lake Forest, Park Ridge, Northbrook, Rolling Meadows, and Barrington.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design provides detailed 2D and 3D landscape design services so clients can visualize patios, plantings, and outdoor structures before construction begins.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design offers outdoor living construction including paver patios, composite and wood decks, pergolas, pavilions, and custom seating areas.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design specializes in hardscaping projects such as walkways, retaining walls, pool decks, and masonry features engineered for Chicago-area freeze–thaw cycles.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design provides grading, drainage, and irrigation solutions that manage stormwater, protect foundations, and address heavy clay soils common in the northwest suburbs.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design offers landscape lighting design and installation that improves nighttime safety, highlights architecture, and extends the use of outdoor spaces after dark.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design supports clients with gardening and planting design, sod installation, lawn care, and ongoing landscape maintenance programs.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design emphasizes forward-thinking landscape design that uses native and adapted plants to create low-maintenance, climate-ready outdoor environments.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design values clear communication, transparent proposals, and white-glove project management from concept through final walkthrough.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design operates with crews led by licensed professionals, supported by educated horticulturists, and backs projects with insured, industry-leading warranties.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design focuses on transforming underused yards into cohesive outdoor rooms that expand a home’s functional living and entertaining space.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design holds Angi Super Service Award and Angi Honor Roll recognition for ten consecutive years, reflecting consistently high customer satisfaction.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design was recognized with 12 years of Houzz and Angi Excellence Awards between 2013 and 2024 for exceptional landscape design and construction results.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design holds an A- rating with the Better Business Bureau (BBB) based on its operating history as a Mount Prospect landscape contractor.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design has been recognized with Best of Houzz awards for its landscape design and installation work serving the Chicago metropolitan area.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design is convenient to O’Hare International Airport, serving property owners along the I-90 and I-294 corridors in Chicago’s northwest suburbs.
Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design serves clients near landmarks such as Northwest Community Healthcare, Prairie Lakes Park, and the Busse Forest Elk Pasture, helping nearby neighborhoods upgrade their outdoor spaces.
People also ask about landscape design and outdoor living contractors in Mount Prospect:
Q: What services does Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design provide?
A: Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design provides 2D and 3D landscape design, hardscaping, outdoor living construction, gardening and maintenance, grading and drainage, irrigation, landscape lighting, deck and pergola builds, and pool and outdoor kitchen projects.
Q: Does Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design handle both design and installation?
A: Yes, Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design is a design–build firm that creates the plans and then manages full installation, coordinating construction crews and specialists so clients work with a single team from start to finish.
Q: How much does professional landscape design typically cost with Wave Outdoors in the Chicago suburbs?
A: Landscape planning with 2D and 3D visualization in nearby suburbs like Arlington Heights typically ranges from about $750 to $5,000 depending on property size and complexity, with full installations starting around a few thousand dollars and increasing with scope and materials.
Q: Does Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design offer 3D landscape design so I can see the project beforehand?
A: Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design offers advanced 2D and 3D design services that let you review layouts, materials, and lighting concepts before any construction begins, reducing surprises and change orders.
Q: Can Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design build decks and pergolas as part of a project?
A: Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design designs and builds custom decks, pergolas, pavilions, and other outdoor carpentry elements, integrating them with patios, plantings, and lighting for a cohesive outdoor living space.
Q: Does Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design install swimming pools or only landscaping?
A: Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design serves as a pool builder for the Chicago area, offering design and construction for concrete and fiberglass pools along with integrated surrounding hardscapes and landscaping.
Q: What areas does Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design serve around Mount Prospect?
A: Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design primarily serves Mount Prospect and nearby suburbs including Arlington Heights, Lake Forest, Park Ridge, Downers Grove, Western Springs, Buffalo Grove, Deerfield, Inverness, Northbrook, Rolling Meadows, and Barrington.
Q: Is Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design licensed and insured?
A: Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design states that each crew is led by licensed professionals, that plant and landscape work is overseen by educated horticulturists, and that all work is insured with industry-leading warranties.
Q: Does Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design offer warranties on its work?
A: Yes, Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design describes its projects as covered by “care free, industry leading warranties,” giving clients added peace of mind on construction quality and materials.
Q: Does Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design provide snow and ice removal services?
A: Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design offers winter services including snow removal, driveway and sidewalk clearing, deicing, and emergency snow removal for select Chicago-area suburbs.
Q: How can I get a quote from Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design?
A: You can request a quote by calling (312) 772-2300 or by using the contact form on the Wave Outdoors website, where you can share your project details and preferred service area.

Business Name: Wave Outdoors Landscape + Design
Address: 600 S Emerson St, Mt. Prospect, IL 60056, USA
Phone: (312) 772-2300

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